Return to 1997 AUTUMN Index
By Anita Hunter
"If a woman is poorly dressed you notice the clothes. If she is
impeccably dressed you notice the women". A perceptive
comment from Coco Chanel, that is as relevant to working women
as to the Chanel clad 'ladies who lunch'. Clothes can be a great
weapon in a working environment that is becoming increasingly
competitive .The current fashions for minimalist and tailored
clothes provide the perfect opportunity to improve your sartorial
armoury when it comes to dressing for work.
Brains and ability are useful
attributes when it comes to career
success but the importance of
presentation should not be
underestimated. Politicians (or at
least their spin-doctors and PR people) have long realized
the importance of image in projecting a particular message.
Margaret Thatcher famously dispensed with frilly blouses
and deepened her voice to effect her transformation into
Prime Minister and 'Iron Lady'. How you look affect's how
you are perceived and people will make a whole set of
value judgements (many subconsciouses) on the basis of
what you are wearing and how you are wearing it. If you
want to communicate that you are capable and efficient it
follows that you need to look capable and efficient. Even if you're never going to run a country or
an international company, there's absolutely no harm in looking as if you could. The right clothes
will give you confidence, raise your profile and send out signals of competence.
First impressions often have the greatest influence and
sociologists have identified that the first three minutes of any
meeting are the most important. Your appearance is
therefore a vital factor in making the right impression in those
first few minutes.
Dress codes vary considerably in
different offices and professions and
such codes should be respected. In her
book 'The Language of Clothes', Alison
Lurie comments "To wear the costume
considered 'proper' for a situation acts
as a sign of involvement in it, and the
person whose clothes do not conform
to these standards is likely to be more or less excluded from participation".
To wear anything other than the accepted, correct clothing may therefore
suggest a lack of involvement and judgement. For this reason, Pelmet-short
skirts and décolleté are rarely appropriate in any business environment.
'Investment Dressing' is the key to a versatile business wardrobe. Concentrate on quality and good cut rather than high fashion. Ralph Lauren's comment that 'A stylish woman has good clothes that work for years' is very apt. Well cut, quality clothes have a long shelf life. They don't date too quickly and will still look crisp and smart after numerous trips to the dry-cleaners. Restrict yourself to one or two neutral 'core colours' such as grey or black to ensure that everything co-ordinates. These neutral colours are easy to match, tend not to date and rarely offend. Add an up to the minute fashion note or a touch of individuality with a colourful shirt or scarf.
Detail and accessories are also essential to a really professional image.
Manicured hands, controlled hair, subtle make-up and snag free hosiery
all contribute to the overall impression that you give. Polished shoes help
to project a polished image.
Minimalist, tailored clothes are currently the fashion and
are perfect for including in a business wardrobe. The wide
shouldered 'power suits' of the Eighties have been
replaced by something slightly softer and more feminine.
Shoulders are narrower, fabrics more fluid and the waist
more accentuated. For an instant update to your business
wardrobe, invest in a trouser suit with a shapely long line
jacket. The trend this season is for looser cut trousers
although a narrow leg is often more flattering. Steer clear
of boot-cut trousers, as this is a fashion trend very much on the way out.
Jil Sanders, Agnes B, Ann Demeulemeester and Donna Karan design collections with the working woman in mind. The hefty price tag of designer clothes will give you quality fabrics, impeccable cutting and a certain degree of exclusivity. For complete exclusivity and an absolutely perfect fit, a bespoke suit is an option that you could consider.
Tailors are no longer an exclusively male preserve and can be an absolute
godsend if you are not a standard shape or size. There is also plenty of scope
for those on a more limited budget. From the High Street, Next, Austin Reed
and Episode all have excellent ranges that are specifically aimed at the working
woman. And don't overlook Marks and Spencer - their new season collection
includes a really covetable pure new wool trouser suit in black, pinstripe or
navy for £135.