Return to 1998 SUMMER Index
Trends for summer 1998 were paraded on the catwalks last October and the most popular looks are now filling the shops. Minimalism is still a key feature. Simple shapes skim the body and emphasise curves. Shoe string straps, gauzy fabrics and an explosion of pinks all add femininity. Cropped trousers have made a come back, (rechristened Demis following numerous catwalk show attendances by Demi Moore). Hemlines hover around the knee or skim the ankle. Cowgirls, gypsies and peasants all get a look in with an abundance of fringes, gathers, drawstrings and ruches.
All this is great news for the amateur dressmaker. Most of the key looks are easy to copy and simple to sew. There are some excellent commercial patterns available which perfectly capture the new proportions. Why not add some individuality to Summer 1998 by making something yourself.
 | SOFT SHELL Simple shell tops are a smart alternative to little vests. Forget blouses and shirts and think shells. Cropped to just slightly below the waist, they provide the perfect balance for knee length straight skirts and cropped trousers. Vogue pattern 2092 includes a shell along with this season's calf length trousers and a classic shift dress. An additional jacket and skirt provide a pretty comprehensive set of options from just one pattern. Style 2896 has an excellent selection of different shell tops including a cowl neck and mandarin collar. McCall's 8814 is also a good basic pattern. |  |
 | JERSEY SEPARATES Mix and match sleek jersey separates for a pared down silhouette. Simple shapes are layered together for a body conscious look that is strongly influenced by sportswear. Shaped clothes flatter rather than flatten the body. Calvin Klein has probably had the most influence in terms of this look and Vogue pattern 2011 is by the maestro himself. Vogue 1992 is extremely versatile and includes numerous different choices including this season's strapless top. The skirts, vest top and shorts in Style 2834 also provide simple jersey shapes, which would be ideal for a holiday wardrobe. |  |
 | SHIFT DRESSES Consign you tea dresses and floral prints to Oxfam. Shift dresses were ubiquitous at the designer shows and are perfect for minimal effort summer dressing. The silhouette is fitted rather than A-line and hemlines hover above the knee. White, pink and grey are the season's colours. A layer of gauzy fabric or lace adds extra femininity and a contemporary touch. These dresses are wonderfully straightforward to make and can easily be tailored for the most flattering fit. McCall's 8017 is a versatile basic pattern with numerous sleeve and hemline options. NewLook 6605, Style 2824 and Burda 3477 are easy to make and stylish. For a lined version try Butterwick 5576. For a beautiful bias cut, ankle length dress by Calvin Klein try Vogue 1588. |  |
| GYPSY If simple shapes and minimalism seem a little boring then you could take a walk on the wild side. At Antonio Baradi and Alexander McQueen cowgirls sauntered down the catwalk sporting Stetsons and fringing. At Nicole Farhi, Miu Miu and Rifat Ozbek, models flashed sultry looks wearing gypsy style blouses and dresses. The gathered neckline and tiny sleeves on Vogue pattern 1978 by Givenchy encapsulate the gypsy look in a subtle and flattering way. The contrast from the sheer fabric around the neckline adds another fashion detail. For something more flamboyant, budding Esmereldas could try a classic gypsy blouse (Burda pattern 2975 or Style 2465) or a peasant dress (Style 2621). |  |
 | SUMMER NIGHTS The two strong looks for eveningwear are slim, slinky dresses and extravagant, full skirted gowns. Elegant column dresses can be cheap and easy to make and have real film star appeal. Vogue pattern 2606 by Ralph Lauren is a real winner and can be made up full length or as a cocktail dress. Vogue 1367 by American designers Tom and Linda Platt is another stunning design for would be Oscar winners. Grand, belle-époque ball dresses are perhaps a bit OTT for the average summer soiree and can cost a fortune because of the enormous amounts of fabric involved. McCall's pattern 7990 provides a more realistic version of the look with a corset style top and full skirt. |  |